Some tablets/phones show the Category Index at the end of this blog! .. so to help with that problem I have included a copy of all the subjects below ... just click on a category below to view News/Blog on that subject and scroll down through the posts that appear re your chosen topic. 'ALL' will show every post in date order.
Puppy farms are not somewhere that puppies are romping around in the field - they are disgusting, cruel living conditions for mother and pups - infections, illness and disease are rife and so many people have heartbreak after buying a puppy that comes from a puppy farm. They are often 'shipped out' to a sellers home to look like a home bred pup - do not be fooled.
Never buy from Puppy Farm (ie via Pet Shops, Ads in the Paper & Websites showing several different breeds being available etc)
Remember - All puppies bought from April 2016 must be microchipped by the breeder before being sold - always obtain the paperwork so the microchip can be transferred to you after purchase
Buying a puppy is a serious commitment and should not be taken lightly. Before making that decision consider whether you have the time and money to care for a dog properly and the commitment to do so for the rest of its life, which could be 15 years.
If you decide to get a dog why not consider giving a home to a rescue dog? Animal shelters up and down the country are full of dogs needing a home. Rescue dogs make wonderful companions and desperately need our help since thousands are abandoned every year, in many cases through no fault of the dog. Many thousands are put to sleep simply because they don't have a home; so when you give a shelter dog a home, you're literally giving them a second chance at life.
If you have a particular breed in mind you could also consider adopting from one of the many breed rescues but always do your homework and checkout the people who run the rescue are reputable.
If you do decide to get a puppy from a breeder, you should first research which breed of dog will best suit your lifestyle.
The Law on Dog Identification from 2016
Dogs currently are required by law to wear a collar and ID tag.
Also if you purchase a puppy from 2016 it needs to be microchipped by the breeder before you buy it, and you then need to have that chip information transferred into your ownership details.
The 1992 Control of Dogs Order stated that dogs in public places must wear a collar and ID tag.
This means that your dog can have a collar with your details engraved on it or that it wears an ID tag from the collar.
There are some exceptions from wearing a collar for working dogs.
The information required on a collar or ID tag is:
Personally I prefer not to put my dogs name on the ID as this can aid thieves if your dog is stolen.
I do recommend that you have the words 'I am Chipped' or 'I am Microchipped' added to the ID.
Your choice of tag is a personal one, but whatever design you choose please ensure you have the right details according to the law (as above).
There is a fine of up to £5,000 if your dog does not have an ID tag and the fine is the same if the ID does not include the information as stated above.
As a side note - please ensure anyone who supplies you with a pet ID tag does put on the correct information, alot of these people including my local Pets At Home!!! do not know the law - relying on them could cost you £5,000 if they do not add in the correct information.
If you truly LOVE your dog then NEVER:
This is not something to take lightly .. please do not have the 'It Won't Happen To Me' attitude
Dogs are stolen from outside shops, during walks, from cars even from gardens in huge amounts in the UK
WHY LEAVE YOUR DOG VULNERABLE - don't risk it - LOVE YOUR DOG and keep it safe.
Click on link below for how to fill Kongs for puppies and adult dogs
The video clip below will amuse some of you at first.... until you realise that it is a parody of what we expect dogs to tolerate when people and visitors come up to them and insist on patting them.
It's easy for us to see that people do not like their personal space being invaded by strangers...... even for affection..... in that way dogs are not that different from us.
Please ask BEFORE you pat anyone else's dog and if they say 'No' then there is probably a very good reason for that answer.
If your dog doesn't seem to like being patted/cuddled then think of this video:
You might need to be logged into facebook to see this video
Please feel free to email a testimonial to firstname.lastname@example.org - thank you
Always to click on the ' READ MORE ' wording (bottom right corner) to see more
*I got myself a vizsla puppy and thought training would be easy after having three dogs before. However, no such luck, he was a training nightmare and hyperactive. Shirley and Gill with their training regime and patience have given me the skills to train him into the lovely dog that he is today. The lessons are great for owners and dogs alike with lots of help and new things to learn each week."
Liz and Alfie (Vizsla) February 2015
"Knowing how difficult it is to train and English Springer we had a hesitant start which involved taking the initial puppy class twice (!) as Poppy was more interested in jumping around and generally playing up (rather than learning anything). With guidance and patience from both Shirley and Gill we have now gone on to complete the first follow on class. We have both learnt a great deal and enjoyed the experience. Poppy has really benefitted from the classes."
Hilary and Poppy (Springer Spaniel) September 2014
"So far so good .. I am amazed at how well 'yes' works and hope the progress Ebbie & I are making continues. Thank you." (note: 'yes' = clicker marker)
Jan and Ebony (Pointer X Greek Rescue) September 2014
"Having previously owned a Vizsla who was easy to train I stupidly thought Vizsla no 2 would be as easy, how wrong I was!! Having already had amazing success with our Airedale Terrier, Bertie (yes I said amazing success with a terrier!!!) I thought it only sensible to take Digby (Vizsla no 2) to the Flying Paws classes. Now nearly 8 months old Digby has come on leaps & bounds & is continuing to improve. Many thanks"
Fiona and Digby (Vizsla) August 2014
"Rue, Joseph and I have loved every minute of the puppy classes. We have learned so much even though I had done some clicker-type training before. It was amazing to see all the different breeds of dog catered for and to see them all progress in such a short time. Rue was thirteen weeks old when we started and he now has all the basics: sit, down, leave, heelwork and a recall and we are able to use the clicker training in all aspects of life. We have had so many positive comments about his behaviour when we have been out and so much of it is down to his attention on us and our understanding of his behaviour. We are really looking forward to the continuation classes. Thank you very much, Shirley and Gill!"
Nicky, Joseph and Rue (Border Collie) June 2014
"I got Blue back in October 2013 he was a year old beagle cross basset with no training to speak of. 'He is lovely but..' Was my first sentence he didn't like being left alone, he would bark and howl, I found this incredibly heart breaking. His recall was next to useless which in turn made me nervous, he pulled like mad aside from this he was the friendliest dog I've known, Shirley and Gill have helped us no end, he walks to heel, he waits at roads, I can leave him home alone no howling no barking just plenty of snoozing. His recall is improved enough so in some areas I feel confident enough to let him off. I've been training with Flying Paws since October, I shall be continuing for as long as I feel we should I don't think we've finished yet, I also think that you can't train your dogs enough or humans for that matter. Blue lives the classes too as do I. I can't recommend them enough."
Amanda and Blue (Beagle X Basset) June 2014
"Absolutely loving the puppy classes - each week we come away with another little gem to tuck into our training knowledge base. It is so good to be able to work thru issues in a controlled environment watched over by experts. At last I am getting the confidence to know how to handle those tricky situations out in the real world. So so grateful for all the help and really looking forward to the next course! Thank you Shirley & Gill."
Joe and Rio (Jack Russell X) February 2014
"To be honest I started the classes without much hope for Bob because in the house he was lovely and attentive but outside he was a different dog, He wouldn't recall, in fact he wouldn't look at me, or even flick an ear in recognition of his name being called! I actually had the vet check his hearing and sight because I've never known a dog be so unresponsive ... except of course he didn't have any issue hearing or seeing small furry things to chase. I never imagined in my wildest dreams that we'd be training him off lead, never mind within 4 weeks! I'm so proud of him and ever grateful to you, this training will change his life and it has improved my bond with him hugely."
Michelle and Bob (Jack Russell X) November 2013
Click on button below, then click on arrow to right of '1-40' to move to each slide
Kong Stuffing Recipes .. What is a 'Kong' A Kong is a tough, hollow, rubber cone designed to be filled with food. Kongs come in different sizes, are freezer proof, and are extremely resilient to being chewed. For powerful chewers, the black Kong is recommended. Red is for normal chewers, and for older dogs and puppies, multi-coloured, softer rubber Kongs are available. A dog should be supervised for the first few times that it is given a Kong, and unless a dog proves that it can destroy it, it is probably the safest activity toy to leave with a dog whilst alone.
I have yet to meet a dog who doesn't show any interest in a tasty filled Kong. Some dogs take a little time to really get into the 'zone' of licking out all the filling, but all quickly realise that Kongs are wonderful things. Many dogs who tend towards anxiety develop licking compulsions towards themselves and surfaces such as floors and walls. Licking is a comforting, stress-reducing activity, and using a Kong to encourage but redirect this behaviour into an acceptable and even more rewarding outlet can really help to put socially insecure dogs at ease.
A Kong is a great way to introduce a puppy to being left on its own and to view its owner's departure as a good thing. The same applies to adult dogs who are prone to separation distress, as part of a rehabilitation programme. For dogs who are convalescing and need to have their physical activity restricted, splitting the daily food ration into four smaller meals and feeding each in a Kong is a great way to provide rewarding, alternative activity and not overload the body with too much food in one go. For dogs who tend towards anxious excitement when visitors call, a Kong smeared with something tasty inside can provide a useful distraction.
A number of things that dogs find tasty that can be smeared inside a Kong to provide a quick, two-minute distraction include peanut butter, cream cheese, meat and fish pastes, Marmite and Bovril.
There are special pastes and biscuit type products available to stuff into Kongs, however, cheap and healthy alternative fillings are extremely easy to make. A portion of a dog's daily kibble ration, cooked white rice or cooked, mashed sweet potato all provide a good base to which 'extras' can be added such as foods that promote good digestive health, foods that can help to calm separation distressed dogs, and foods that provide a vitamin or protein boost.
About 50% of dogs are lactose intolerant meaning that they cannot digest lactose, a sugar that is found in milk, yoghurt and cheese. Lactose-intolerant dogs are often very flatulent and may produce softer than normal faeces. If you suspect that your dog is lactose-intolerant, it is better to avoid feeding yoghurt and cheese as whilst the foods in themselves aren't harmful, the abnormal bacteria activity within the dog's gut can lead to bacteria imbalances and malabsorbtion of nutrients, vitamins and minerals.
Foods to avoid because they are toxic to dogs include chocolate, grapes, raisins, sultanas and onions. Watch out for 'hidden' sources of onion too - stock cubes often contain onion and are very high in salt, so are best avoided.
Kongs can also be filled with water or cooking stock and frozen in hot weather. As well as being a cooling and soothing treat for teething puppies, this is a great way to provide liquid to dogs that need to be crated when left.
To prepare and freeze a liquid-filled Kong:
Of course a Kong doesn't have to be filled with liquid to be frozen. Any stuffed Kong can be frozen, and a frozen filling will provide a longer-lasting treat.
KONG STUFFING RECIPESHere are just a few Kong stuffing recipe ideas.
Ingredients: A portion of your dog's normal kibble, about a teaspoon of meat paste, a chunk of banana (about an inch thick).
Method: Half fill the Kong with kibble, then add the meat paste. Using the handle of the spoon, mix the meat paste into the kibble. Add some more kibble, packing it in well, and then plug the large opening with the banana.
Food Fact: Banana is a 'pre-biotic' food, which means it provides a good nutritional base to feed the dog's friendly gut bacteria and so promote good digestive health.
Ingredients: A portion of your dog's normal kibble, about a dessertspoon of cottage cheese, a chunk of banana (about an inch thick).
Method: Half fill the Kong with kibble, then spoon in most of the cottage cheese. Holding your hand over the large opening, shake the Kong to coat the kibble in the cottage cheese. Add some more kibble, packing it in well, then top with the remainder of the cottage cheese before plugging the large opening with the banana.
Food Fact: Cottage cheese contains a good source of the protein amino-acid 'casein', which the body converts into naturally occurring opioids that have a calming effect. This is especially useful to help separation distressed dogs to feel more relaxed when alone. Bananas are also thought to have a calming effect too.
SWEET & NUTTY
Ingredients: Warm freshly boiled white rice, warm freshly steamed and mashed sweet potato, about a dessertspoon of peanut butter.
Method: Mix and mash together the rice and sweet potato and peanut butter. Fill the Kong with the mix and it's ready to serve. Alternatively, wait until the rice and sweet potato has cooled before making the mix and then freeze the Kong to use later. When frozen this mix seems to last for hours, so it's a great boredom buster, especially on long car journeys.
Food Fact: Sweet potato is a great source of beta-carotene. Beta-carotene is converted by the body into vitamin A and acts as powerful antioxidant, helping to support immune system health.
Ingredients: Banana, a small handful of blueberries, natural yoghurt.
Method: Mash or blend the banana, blueberries and yoghurt together in a bowl. Place the Kong, small end down, in a mug, and spoon in the mix. Place in the freezer and serve when frozen.
Food Fact: Blueberries are high in antioxidants and vitamin C, and can help to support cardiovascular and urinary tract health.
Ingredients: 1 scrambled egg, 1 chopped Frankfurter or hot-dog sausage, boiled white rice.
Method: Mash the scrambled egg and rice together in a bowl and then mix in the chopped sausage. Fill the Kong, using a chunk of sausage to plug the end.
Food Fact: Egg is 100% nutritionally complete, meaning that it contains all the protein-amino acids that the body needs.
TUM-EASE ~ Thanks to Carole Green (owned by Cody) for this recipe suggestion.
Ingredients: Cold boiled white rice, about a dessertspoon of natural bio-yoghurt.
Method: Mix and mash the rice and yoghurt together and fill the Kong. Serve straight away or freeze for later.
Food Fact: The blandness of boiled white rice coupled with the 'friendly' bacteria in natural bio-yogurt makes this a great recipe for dogs with sensitive tummies.
PUMPKIN PIE ~ Thanks to Eryka Kahunanui (owned by Bizzle Fo’ Shizzle and Sarah Bean) for this recipe suggestion.
Ingredients: Pureed pumpkin, tahini paste (or peanut butter).
Method: Mix together the pureed pumpkin and tahini paste and fill the Kong. Serve straight away or freeze for later.
Food Fact: Tahini (sesame butter) is a good source of calcium and zinc, minerals essential for healthy bones.
2 tablespoons wheat germ
1 tablespoon plain yogurt (can use your pets favorite as well)
In a bowl, mash up banana. Then add wheat germ and yogurt. Mash all ingredients together and use spoon to add to Kong. Freeze for 4 hours.
Makes 1 serving for Medium Kong. (Double for every Kong size that is bigger.)
Cheesy Dental Kong Delight
(A very simple and creative way to make any pet drool in delight)
3 slices of your pets favorite cheese
Just place the 3 slices of cheese directly onto the grooves of your pets Dental Kong (if your model has rope - make sure cheese does not get onto it).
Melt in microwave for 20 to 30 seconds. Give to pet after it cools.
1 ounce cream cheese
Place small scraps of the steak inside Kong toy.
Spread cream cheese in large hole to hold scraps.
Peaches, apples and carrot chunks
1/4 th of a banana
Place apples and carrots in Kong toy. Mush banana in large hole to hold fruit in place.
You can include other fruits and veggies: orange slices, plums, and/or nectarine chunks, celery sticks, broccoli and/or cauliflower, tomato and black olive mixture.
Veggie Kong Omelet
Your choice of shredded cheese
Any vegetable that your pet may like
Scramble egg and fold in vegetables. Put in Kong toy.
Sprinkle some cheese over the top of Kong toy opening and microwave for about 20 seconds.
Cool thoroughly before giving to dog.
Mac N Cheese
Leftover macaroni and cheese
Small cube of Velveeta
Melt Velveeta in microwave until gooey. Add Mac n cheese to Kong toy. Pour heated Velveeta into Kong.
Make sure it has cooled before giving to your pet.
Aunt Jeannies Archeology Kong - Famous Recipe
(for the advanced dogs)
Layer 1: (deepest): Roasted, unsalted cashews, dried fruit, Freeze-dried liver bits
Layer 2: Dog kibble, cookies or liver biscotti, Cheerios, sugar free/salt-free
peanut butter, dried banana chips, apples and apricots
Layer 3: Carrot sticks, turkey or leftover meat.
Place the above ingredients inside an inverted Kong (small open should be on the counter) in the order listed above. Pack all ingredients in the Kong as tightly as possible. Serve immediately or freeze for several hours for a longer lasting treat.
Kong on a Rope - Famous Recipe
(For the advanced dogs)
Take the rope, pull it through the Kong toy and knot it.
Hang this upside down from a tree, deck or post. The small hole should be facing the ground.
Take the kibble and fill the Kong toy. Make the toy hang just low enough that it is out of your dog�s reach.
The dog will spend hours trying to retrieve the kibble from the Kong toy. At the end of the day, take the remaining kibble and give to your pet as a reward.
Frozen Jerky Pops
Smear a small amount of peanut butter over small hole in our Kong toy. Fill the toy with cool water and add a pinch of bouillon. Place a jerky stick inside Kong toy and freeze. This also can be put (once frozen) in a children�s size swimming pool for a fun day of fishing for your pet.
Simple, Tried and True
Smear peanut butter inside the cavity of your Kong toy. Its that easy!
Try mixing turkey, chicken, or marrow bites with slightly moistened food nuggets. Freeze inside the Kong.
Sardine Cake .. (thanks to Sue M for the recipe)
Tin of Sardines in Tomato Sauce
Grated Cheese (as much or as little as you want)
Microwave proof containers
Mix Sardines and eggs, add Cheese, add Oat, add enough flour to mix into a soft dough.
Put into microwaveable tubs - microwave for about 6 minutes.
When cool chop into training size pieces and spread on a baking tray and put in the oven for about 30 minutes at 180 , then turn off the oven and leave in there until cool
Simple Salmon Cake ..
1 14.75 oz can Pink Salmon
2 cups Flour
Cook time: 30 min
Ready in: 40 min
Yields: Depends on dog's size/training session duration
Variations on a Theme If you dog doesn't like salmon or you don't have salmon on hand, no problem. Tuna is a great substitute for the salmon. In fact, you can substitute any meat for the salmon as long as it can grind up and be mixed easily with the flour. The simple concept of flour with the egg binder and added meat for flavor can be used to make any variety of different treats.
** Caution **: I don't recommend "seasoning" the treats. Your dog will get enough flavor just from the delicious fish/meat. Adding in salt only increases unhealthy sodium levels. Also, don't add garlic. Garlic can be dangerous for dogs
The recipes shown are not written by me and adding garlic is not recommended by me / Flying Paws Dog Training
Liver, Sardine & Tuna Cake Recipes (scroll down for more recipes!) ...
SARDINE in Sunflower Oil OR Pilchards in Tomato Sauce CAKE - MICROWAVE
2 Tins Sardines in Sunflower Oil (or Pilchards in Tomato Sauce)
1 Clove Garlic crushed ( not recommended by Flying Paws Dog Training )
Empty sardines with oil into bowl and mash with a fork
Add the garlic and eggs and stir (do not beat)
Stir in enough flour to make a stiff cake mixture (usually about 4 or 5 tablespoon full)
Tip mixture into an old ice cream tub or similar and microwave on full power for 7 minutes
Some people like to then turn the cake upside down and microwave for a further minute, this is not always necessary but depends on how much oil is in the sardines.
Cool and cut into bite sized chucks and freeze whatever you don't need right away
SARDINE CAKE – OVEN VERSION (thank you Liz for sharing this recipe)
2 tins 90g sardines in oil – mashed (with oil)
300g flour – any type (I use half wholemeal and half self raising)
1 garlic cloves crushed ( not recommended by Flying Paws Dog Training )
Tablespoon of chopped parsley
Mix it altogether.
Pat it down in a baking tin.
Bake 20 mins approx at 180 fan oven.
Cut into cubes when cool. Can be frozen.
It goes off very rapidly and after two days at room temperature will start going mouldy.
CHICKEN LIVERS OR TUNA – OVEN VERSION
Dollop of frozen chicken livers (can use tuna) all mashed up in the liquidizer, two eggs mushed in.
two cloves of garlic ( not recommended by Flying Paws Dog Training ) smashed up first.
Flour to make it like cake mix and smooth it all out on a swiss roll baking tin.
Cook till ready.
Keep it in the freezer till you want it.
It goes off very rapidly and after two days at room temperature will start going mouldy.
LIVER CAKE – OVEN VERSION
2 parts liver (pork, chicken or lamb) a squirt of oil 2 eggs (to about 400-500 g liver) garlic ( not recommended by Flying Paws Dog Training )
Mix in food processor until turned in to a paste then add 1 part flour and mix again if too thick add a tbs or two of water
Pour in to an oven proof glass form that has been brushed with oil and then covered with whole meal flour (just add a bit and shake until the whole form is covered)
Bake at 200 degrees for 25 min
LIVER CAKE - MICROWAVE VERSION:
I chuck 1tbsp garlic powder ( not recommended by Flying Paws Dog Training ), 1lb liver, 1lb flour, 3 eggs 1 tsp oil and a splosh of milk into the food processor whizz it up for a couple of mins
Transfer into microwaveable bowl and nuke for 6 - 10 minutes.
Let it cool, chop it up, and yes - freeze what you're not going to use that day.
It goes off very rapidly and after two days at room temperature will start going mouldy.
MICROWAVING TOP TIP:
Cook it in microwave using a roasting bag = very little smell when cooking and it does not crumble
LIVER – without the ‘cake’ bit J - OVEN VERSIONS
Bake the liver in the oven for 20 minutes, turn the oven off, move the tray to the bottom shelf and leave to cool.
When cold, chop up into small pieces.
Cut liver into 1cm squares, mix in some garlic paste ( not recommended by Flying Paws Dog Training ) - spread it out on a large baking sheet and cook at 160 for 2.5 hours (ish)
Bakes rock hard and completely dry so keeps almost forever!
Ox liver is best as pigs liver is very fatty so smells more and fumigates the house with smoke!
** Caution **: I don't recommend "seasoning" the treats. Your dog will get enough flavor just from the delicious fish/meat. Adding in salt only increases unhealthy sodium levels. Also, don't add garlic. Garlic can be dangerous for dogs
The recipes shown are not written by me and adding garlic is not recommended by me / Flying Paws Dog Training
Dogs don't want to control people - they want to control their own livesWe at Flying Paws Dog Training do not believe in the 'harsh' methods used by some other trainers and clubs.
We do not believe in the totally misguided idea that dogs are out to 'rule the world' or to 'dominate' you.
Dogs are out for what they can 'get from life' and unfortunately combined with lack of training and human understanding; dog and human ideas on this can clash, resulting in people believing or being told their dogs are 'dominant'.
There is alot of evidence that harsh training methods and 'dominance based training' (as TV trainers such as Ceaser Milan use) cause more aggression from your dog, there are lots of books available on the subject and now a Professor (John Bradshaw) has written a book.
What Is Positive Dog Training?
Positive training means rewarding your dog for performing a behaviour you desire. When your dog exhibits a behaviour you like, you show your dog that you appreciate that behaviour by rewarding your dog. A reward is anything your dog may enjoy. Food, throwing a tennis ball, playing tug, giving your dog a massage, praising your dog, and running with your dog are all examples of rewards (but the reward MUST be something the DOG wants, not something we want to give the dog).
By rewarding your dog for performing a behaviour, your dog will want to repeat the behaviour again. By repeating the behaviour, your dog will get very good at practising it. He will then exhibit that behaviour regularly without you having to reinforce it (ie reward it) so often.
So, How Is Positive Training Different From Being “Dominant” Over A Dog?
Positive training is very different from the methods used by those following a dominance/submission approach to training. When people try to be dominant over dogs, they often employ harmful techniques that can be quite confrontational.
Scroll down for more scientific evidence, but immediately below is a newspaper article extract about Professor Bradshaws new book:
Why dog trainers will have to change their ways Professor John Bradshaw is leading a revolution in the study of canine behaviour.
'Dogs don't want to control people, they want to control their own lives,' he says.
Professor John Bradshaw is holding out a clenched fist – you might see this as a novel way of greeting a stranger were it not that it is my dog, Lily, he is approaching. He is giving her a chance to have a good sniff at him. Before we go any further, it needs spelling out that Bradshaw is not a dog trainer. He has not come to my house to turn Lily into a reformed character. He is a scientist – founder and director of the Anthrozoology Institute at the University of Bristol – who has devoted the last 25 years to studying the domestic dog and has just written the most fantastic book, In Defence of the Dog, which is already on US bestseller lists and is about to become required reading for dog lovers everywhere. Bradshaw is not interested in canine hearsay. He does not peddle opinions. His style is tolerant, clear and benign and he is interested only in what science can support. His book is a revelation – a major rethink about the way we understand our dogs, an overturning of what one might call traditional dogma.
The first idea to bite the dust is so huge and entrenched that some owners will struggle to adjust. We have had it drummed into us by trainers such as Cesar Millan that because dogs are descended from wolves (their DNA is almost identical), they behave like wolves and can be understood as "pack" animals. The received thinking has been that dogs seek to "dominate" and that our task is to assert ourselves as pack leaders – alpha males and females – and not allow dogs to get the upper paw. (I remember sitting in the back of a puppy-training class with Lily who was crying while the teacher was talking. I got ticked off. I was told she was demonstrating "dominant" behaviour.) Bradshaw has no quarrel about DNA. His argument is that scientists have been studying the wrong wolves and jumping to the wrong conclusions. He says: "People have been studying American timber wolves because the European wolf is virtually extinct. And the American timber wolf is not related at all closely to the ancestry of the domestic dog."
Bradshaw's hypothesis is that domestic dogs were descended from more sociable wolves but that "whatever the ancestor of the dog was like, we don't have it today". The wolves alive now are unreliable specimens, necessarily rough diamonds, who have been able to "survive the onslaught we have given them". And here is the rub: new research – including work with Indian village dogs – shows that dogs "do not set up wolf-type packs. They don't organise themselves in the way wolves do". Dogs are not striving, in other words, for household domination. Bradshaw believes our relationship with dogs has been sadly distorted. He writes: "The most pervasive and pernicious idea informing dog training techniques is that the dog is driven to set up a dominance hierarchy wherever it finds itself." He explains that apparently dominant dogs are usually "anxious" rather than "ambitious". He says: "They don't want to control people, they want to control their own lives. It is what we are all aiming for – to keep control of our own lives. It is a fundamental biological urge."
But Bradshaw is far from suggesting we slacken in our efforts to train our dogs (it is the more brutal training methods he would like to banish). But I wonder how Cesar Millan and his followers will respond to these findings. Millan, America's internationally influential "dog whisperer" has made a television career explaining dog psychology in terms of wolf lore. On a recent tour of the UK, Millan was told his methods were close to breaching Defra guidelines (which forbid harsh training). All that stuff he spouted about wolves was not based on science." Besides, as Bradshaw observes, there are more "hardcore" trainers out there – such as the massively influential Monks of New Skete in the United States who "sound as if they ought to be the gentlest people in the world" but base their bogus, punitive methods on wolf biology: they urge owners to shake their dogs "because this is what wolf mothers do to keep their cubs in line" - which is totally UNACCEPTABLE training.
Bradshaw favours humane, reward-based training. The latest science shows that dogs learn to "please their owners". It is wonderful to hear this: he makes one feel fantastically upbeat about being a dog owner (and it is a relief to drop all thoughts of a primitive power struggle).
Bradshaw first went to the dogs – in the best sense – because of his interest in "the science of smell. I used to study ants, wasps, moths… then I thought: why not broaden this out?" When he started out, a quarter of a century ago, he was in an unglamorous minority. Now canine science is a "huge industry – with 200-300 people working worldwide". The reasons for this include the sequencing of the canine genome, the rise in animal welfare science, increased interest from vets wanting to specialise in dog behaviour and primatologists who can no longer afford to study chimpanzees. But the most remarkable reason, Bradshaw explains, is that since 9/11 there has been a huge increase in the use of sniffer dogs. Dogs are now used not only for narcotics but to help epileptics (able to alert them when they are on the edge of a seizure) and to sniff out everything from bedbugs to shark's fins and even certain kinds of cancer. Bradshaw, in his book, follows the dog's nose brilliantly (it was intriguing to learn that while dogs love to sniff other dogs they "do not much like being sniffed themselves"). He urges us to show "manners" and be aware of our dog's sense of smell. And his championing of a dog's right to be a dog is attractive. But I had been hoping he might have a solution to what happens when the sense of smell gets out of hand: Lily, whenever there is a roast in the oven, is overcome with greed and longing – and barks. On this matter, he says only: "Ignore her." (I suspect him of being on her side.)
For anyone interested in dog emotion, In Defence of Dogs is also a sentimental – and surprising – education. The first shocker is this: dogs do not experience guilt. So the look Lily gives us when discovered illegally on the sofa (creeping off, flashing the whites of her eyes) is not guilt? Bradshaw explains she may know to associate that basking on the sofa leads to owner disapproval but that is not the same as feeling guilt, or as having the mental equipment to differentiate between right and wrong. Less surprising is Bradshaw's sense that dogs may be capable of jealousy (when I give my husband a hug, Lily wants to be part of the action). But dog jealousy is not of the all-consuming, Othello sort: "They may be able to feel jealousy in the moment but don't obsess about it or trawl Facebook for evidence."
Bradshaw's most incredible – and gratifying – assertion is that dogs are more interested in people than in other dogs. This is not soppy wishful thinking but the result of studying "co-evolution, the two species evolving towards each other". We forget that the play between species, enjoyed by dogs and humans, is very rare. The family feeling that wolves display has been replaced in dogs by "an intense need to bond with people". Bradshaw says that from the moment puppies open their eyes, they start to bond with people "completely, spontaneously and as hard as they can".
He writes about love (science plays safe and calls it "attachment") but in answer to the question: does your dog love you? replies: 'Of course!" The positive hormone, oxytocin, is triggered by love: "Dogs experience a surge of oxytocin during friendly interactions with people." And, he explains, "Dogs really do miss their owners when separated from them." Of an estimated eight million dogs in the UK, it is thought that more than half a million are suffering from separation stress. The closest Bradshaw comes to being interventionist is on this subject (he quotes excellent, easy instructions on how to train a dog not to feel separation anxiety).
Bradshaw is determined to make "It's a dog's life" into a positive statement. We talk about the future – and his sense that there is an urgent need to reform pedigree breeding if dogs are to have a healthy future. We talk about the past – and the dogs from his own life: Ginger (a cairn terrier belonging to his grandfather); Alexis (a lab/Jack Russell cross – "a roamer"); Ivan (a lab/airedale – "a squirrel chaser"); Bruno (a purebred lab – "not all that bright but he loved us dearly… he did not know how to retrieve") and about his present labrador, Murphy, a field dog. We talk, too, about how good dogs are at reading our body language – and he makes one determined to read theirs correctly (he is a close student of every twitch of ear and tail). I ask about his title: do dogs really need defending? "They need defending from people who persist in the old methods and don't take any notice of science."
Before he leaves, Bradshaw and I have a tug of war with Lily in which (you have to be a dog owner to understand how cutting-edge this is) she is repeatedly allowed to win. She trashes a toy duck and shreds a rope. It is a great and victorious afternoon – as far as she is concerned. Here's Bradshaw on tug-of-war research: "Dogs were allowed to win tug-of-war games played with a person, over and over again; understandably, this made the dog more keen to play with people than when they were forced to lose every time, but there were no signs indicating that any dog became 'dominant' as a result." He is good news for owners and – there is no doubt about it – Professor John Bradshaw is a dog's best friend.
DOG BODY LANGUAGE: Bradshaw's ruff guide BODY POSTURE
Good indicator of dog's overall confidence. Low to the ground: worried. Standing tall: confident.
In general, the lower the tail, the less confident the dog. Upright tail with wagging tip: interest. Relaxed tail, wagged from side to side using movement of whole back end of dog: excitement and/or desire to play. Exaggerated slow swish of tail: some dogs use this when contemplating aggression. Tail between legs: retreat. But a wagged tail may occasionally suggest a dog is unsure and in conflict.
SHAPE OF BACK
Rigid: low level fear or anxiety. Rounded-up back: may indicate indecision, dog looks as if back legs are trying to move forward while front legs try to stand still.
Varies with breed. Ears forward: alertness and interest. Ears down and flattened: fearful, intention to withdraw.
HEAD ON SIDE
Coquettish look learned by some dogs because it evokes rewarding response from owner.
After getting out of a car – or after being patted (as if shaking off water). This has nothing to do with communication. It is simply a loosener. Some dogs get excited around people and their muscles tense up – shaking loosens them.
PEEING/POOING AND KICKING OVER THE TRACES
What Bradshaw coins as "pee-mail". Dogs may want to own the area where they are exercised. Urine is likely to be unique to each individual and contain specific information for other dogs. The scratching/kicking over the traces with back legs is an ancient behaviour and is not to pass the scent around but to create a visual sign for a canine audience – like an arrow on the ground.
LOOKING BACK To check on its owner on a walk and trying to keep family members together if they become separated. This is because people are a dog's territory and it "tries to keep them together". This is not about herding, it is about reassurance.
This makes the dog look bigger to reduce risk of being attacked but is often a bluff (the dog has no intention of fighting).
Also often a bluff, though the dog probably would fight if pushed to the limit.
ALERT THEN FREEZING, EYES WIDE, TEETH BARED
Fear – as in man.
A dog going down on its two front paws and looking expectant with its rear legs still tall and its tail straight up is inviting its owner or another dog to play.
RELAXED OPEN FACE, BODIES THAT WIGGLE FROM SHOULDERS BACKWARDS INCLUDING THE TAIL
Using 'Dominance' To Explain Dog Behavior Is Old Hat
Using 'Dominance' To Explain Dog Behavior Is Old Hat from ScienceDaily (May 25, 2009)
A new study shows how the behaviour of dogs has been misunderstood for generations: in fact using misplaced ideas about dog behaviour and training is likely to cause rather than cure unwanted behaviour.
The findings challenge many of the dominance related interpretations of behaviour and training techniques suggested by current TV dog trainers (such as Cesar Milan).
Contrary to popular belief, aggressive dogs are NOT trying to assert their dominance over their canine or human “pack”, according to research published by academics at the University of Bristol’s Department of Clinical Veterinary Sciences in the Journal of Veterinary Behavior: Clinical Applications and Research.
The researchers spent six months studying dogs freely interacting at a Dogs Trust rehoming centre, and reanalysing data from studies of feral dogs, before concluding that individual relationships between dogs are learnt through experience rather than motivated by a desire to assert “dominance”.
The study shows that dogs are not motivated by maintaining their place in the pecking order of their pack, as many well-known dog trainers preach.
Far from being helpful, the academics say, training approaches aimed at “dominance reduction” vary from being worthless in treatment to being actually dangerous and likely to make behaviours worse.
Instructing owners to eat before their dog or go through doors first will not influence the dog’s overall perception of the relationship – merely teach them what to expect in these specific situations. Much worse, techniques such as pinning the dog to the floor, grabbing jowls, or blasting hooters at dogs will make dogs anxious, often about their owner, and potentially lead to an escalation of aggression.
Dr Rachel Casey, Senior Lecturer in Companion Animal Behaviour and Welfare at Bristol University, said:
“The blanket assumption that every dog is motivated by some innate desire to control people and other dogs is frankly ridiculous. It hugely underestimates the complex communicative and learning abilities of dogs. It also leads to the use of coercive training techniques, which compromise welfare, and actually cause problem behaviours.
“In our referral clinic we very often see dogs which have learnt to show aggression to avoid anticipated punishment. Owners are often horrified when we explain that their dog is terrified of them, and is showing aggression because of the techniques they have used – but its not their fault when they have been advised to do so, or watched unqualified ‘behaviourists’ recommending such techniques on TV.”
At Dogs Trust, the UK’s largest dog welfare charity, rehoming centre staff see the results of misguided dog training all the time. Veterinary Director Chris Laurence MBE, added:
“We can tell when a dog comes in to us which has been subjected to the ‘dominance reduction technique’ so beloved of TV dog trainers. They can be very fearful, which can lead to aggression towards people.
“Sadly, many techniques used to teach a dog that his owner is leader of the pack is counter-productive; you won’t get a better behaved dog, but you will either end up with a dog so fearful it has suppressed all its natural behaviours and will just do nothing, or one so aggressive it’s dangerous to be around.”
Article from: http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2009/05/090521112711.htm#.UFb6t-B5fTl
DOG LAWYER - highly recommended If you are ever in the unfortunate position to need a dog lawyer - Trevor Cooper comes highly recommended - click on line below for his website:
Click here for Trevor Cooper - Dog Law
STUFF YOU NEED TO KNOW:
COLLAR & ID TAG MUST BE WORN AT ALL TIMES
IF YOU LOSE YOUR DOG:
OTHER MORE GENERAL DOG LAW:
DOG LAW – DOG CONTROL ORDERS (DCO) (Clean Neighbours & Environments Act 2005)
DOG LAW – DOG CONTROL ORDERS – BANNED BREEDS:
DOG LAW – DOGS VERSUS DOGS (not all dogs ‘get on’):
PROOF OF OWNERSHIP OF YOUR DOG (copy of letter from ‘Dog Theft Action Chairman’)
Proof IS needed
So, you have a dog in your house which has been one of the family for years. Possibly one member of the household happily assumes the dog is theirs. However, if a partnership breaks up or the dog gets stolen can you prove the dog is yours? Dog Theft Action receives a lot of calls from very distressed owners whose dogs have been located but, in law, they can not prove ownership.
Pedigree - Not enough
Microchipping - Not enough
Registration - Still not enough.
When you take on a dog, even one that is free, ensure you have a bill of sale or a letter transferring ownership. Take photos of your dog and look for some distinguishing features. If you are the one that pays the food or vet’s bills then keep some receipts.
If you know your dog has been stolen then report it to the police and INSIST it is reported as a crime! Micropchipping/tattooing will dramatically increase the chances of you getting your dog back, if found.
But - do remember. You might need to PROVE the dog is OWNED by you!!
Neil Ewart - Chairman. Dog Theft ActionMore Info on dog laws with links to laws etc:Animal Welfare Act 2006 (PDF)
The Animal Welfare Act was introduced on April 6th 2007. From this date, the Act repealed the Protection of Animals Act 1911 and the Abandonment of Animals Act 1960. The new Act increases and introduces new penalties to tackle acts of cruelty, neglect, mutilation, tail docking, animal fighting and the giving of pets as prizes. In addition to this it introduces a duty of care for all pet owners to provide for their animals a suitable environment, a suitable diet, the ability to exhibit normal behaviour patterns, protection from pain, suffering, injury and disease and consideration of the animal’s needs to be housed with, or apart from, other animals.
The Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act 2005
Under this Act, you could be fined up to £1,000 for breaching dog control orders. Local authorities can make orders for standard offences including: failing to remove dog faeces, not keeping a dog on a lead, not putting and keeping a dog on a lead when directed to do so, permitting a dog to enter land from which dogs are excluded and taking more than a specified number of dogs on to land.
To find out whether your local authority has introduced these orders sign up to the Kennel Club’s dog owners group KC Dog, by contacting email@example.com, visitingwww.thekennelclub.org.uk/kcdog or calling 0844 4633 980.
The Clean Neighbourhoods and Environment Act also updates the law on stray dogs by transferring the responsibility for strays from the police to the local authorities. It is highly recommended that your dog is microchipped and registered with Petlog, the largest pet reunification scheme in the UK, as this can prove extremely effective in locating a lost pet. The Petlog Premium service can even alert local vets and dog wardens when an owner reports where their pet was lost. This can be done by telephone, SMS text message or via the Petlog website.
Contact Petlog on 0844 4633 999 or visit www.petlog.org.uk to find out more.
If you lose your dog, you should stay in regular contact with the local council, Petlog, vets, dog shelters, and put up posters in the area where you lost it.
Dog Wardens are obliged to seize stray dogs. The finder of a stray dog must return it to its owner (if known), or take it to the local authority. It is illegal to take a found dog into your home without reporting it to the police first. If you want to retain the dog, this might be allowed, provided you are capable of looking after the dog and agree to keep it for at least 28 days. However, the original owner could still have a claim for the dog's return.
Byelaws on noisy animals
If your dog's barking causes a serious nuisance to neighbours, the local authroity can serve a noice abatement notice, which if unheeded can results in you paying fines and legal expenses.
Breeding and Sales of Dogs (Welfare) Act 1999
Breeders who breed five or more litters per year must be licensed by their local authority. Breeders with fewer litters must also be licensed if they are carrying out a business of breeding dogs for sale.
Licensed breeders must:
a. not mate a bitch less than 12 months old
b. not whelp more than six litters from a bitch
c. not whelp two litters wuthin a 12 month period from the same bitch
d. keep accurate records
e. not sell a puppy until it is at least 8 weeks of age, other than to a keeper of a licensed pet shop, or Scottish rearing establishment
The Control of Dogs Order 1992
This mandates that any dog in a public place must wear a collar with the name and address of the owner engraved or written on it, or engraved on a tag. Your telephone number is optional (but advisable). The Kennel Club can provide these tags. Contact 0844 4633 980 or click here to order tags online.
Dangerous Dogs Act 1991 (section 3)
It is a criminal offence (for the owner and/or the person in charge of the dog) to allow a dog to be ‘dangerously out of control’ in a public place, a place where it is not permitted to be, and some other areas. A ‘dangerously out of control’ dog can be defined as a dog that has injured someone or a dog that a person has grounds for reasonable apprehension that it may do so. Something as simple as your dog chasing, barking at or jumping up at a person or child could lead to a complaint, so ensure that your dog is under control at all times.
If your dog injures a person, it may be seized by the police and your penalty may include a prison sentence and/or a ban on keeping dogs.
There is also an automatic presumption that your dog will be destroyed (unless you can persuade the court that it is not a danger to the public, in which case it may be subject to a control order). You may also have to pay a fine, compensation and costs.
Dangerous Dogs (Amendment) Act 1997
The 1991 Act was amended by the Dangerous Dogs (Amendment) Act 1997. The 1997 Act removed the mandatory destruction order provisions on banned breeds and re-opened the Index of Exempted Dogs for dogs which the courts consider would not pose a risk to the public. The courts were given discretion on sentencing, with only courts able to direct that a dog be placed on the list of exempted dogs.
Dogs of the following type are banned under the Dangerous Dog Act:
The Act is enforced alongside the Dangerous Dogs Act in Scotland and removes any reference to a dog’s ‘size and power’ when determining whether or not it is out of control. The legislation also covers attacks on private property and introduces dog control notices. A notice may be served by an authorised officer appointed by a local authority where a dog has been out of control. The notice sets out the reasons why an authorised officer considers the dog was out of control and specifies what steps the recipient of the notice must take to bring and keep the dog under control.
The Road Traffic Act 1988
It is an offence to have a dog on a designated road without it being held on a lead. Local authorities may have similar bye-laws covering public areas. Dogs travelling in vehicles should not be a nuisance or in any way distract the driver during a journey.
If a dog is injured in a car accident, the driver must stop and give their details to the person in charge of the dog. If there is no person in charge of the dog, the incident must be reported to the police within 24 hours.
Animals Act 1971
You could be liable for damage caused by your dog under this Act or under some degree of negligence. It is highly advisable to have third party liability insurance to cover this, something that is included in most pet and some household insurance policies.
Animal Boarding Establishments Act 1963
Anyone boarding animals as a business (even at home) needs to be licensed by the local authority.
Dogs (Protection of Livestock) Act 1953
Your dog must not worry (chase or attack) livestock (cattle, sheep, goats, pigs, horses and poultry) on agricultural land, so keep your dog on a lead around livestock. If your dog worries livestock, the farmer has the right to stop your dog (even by shooting your dog in certain circumstances).
Dogs Act 1871
It is a civil offence if a dog is dangerous (to people or animals) and not kept under proper control (generally regarded as not on a lead nor muzzled). This law can apply wherever the incident happened. The dog can be subject to a control or a destruction order and you may have to pay costs.
Correct at time of print March 2012
VETERINARY ARTICLE ON DAMAGE CAUSED BY USING CHECK/CHOKE CHAINS
It is vitally important that you train your dog when it is young to obey commands and not to be a general nuisance for other people, and for this reason a dog training collar is often used for such purposes. However, it is possible to injure a dog by using training collars ineffectively or overzealously. They are never to be used as a means of punishment or violent reaction to a dog's mistake. Unfortunately, that is precisely the type of use they often get. Possible Injuries to Dogs Choke chains are perhaps most responsible for unnecessary dog injuries. Choke chains work on very large dogs with thick necks that won't be easily damaged and should only be used when you need to get quick control of the animal. That being said, excessive choke chain use can lead to long term injuries for your dog. They include: tracheal and/or oesophageal damage, sprained necks, foreleg paralysis, laryngeal nerve paralysis and hind leg ataxia.
Tracheal and Oesophageal Damage
By punishing behaviour with a choke chain, not only are you not leaving your dog with positive reinforcement, you could permanently damage their trachea and/or oesophagus. Consistent yanking on a choke chain as a means of training does little else than make them afraid.
Spraining the muscles of the dog's neck is another lasting impression made by choke chains. Too many well-meaning dog owners think they are training their dog when in reality they are inflicting severe psychological damage to them.
Persistent use of the choke chain can also can lasting damage to the forelegs of the animal. Transient foreleg paralysis, as it is known, is caused by damage to the nerves that run to the forelegs.
Laryngeal Nerve Paralysis
Another type of paralysis that can be inflicted upon dogs by the use of choke chains is to their laryngeal nerve. Paralysis to this nerve can affect the dog's voice for life. By "training" your dog with violence, not only are you simply teaching them to fear certain reactions and not really training, but you could possibly be injuring them for life.
Hind Leg Ataxia
Hind leg ataxia in canines shows symptoms such as imbalance, wobbliness, buckling leg joints, tripping, falling and even collapsing. This too can be caused by the use of choke chains, and it is another reason to never use them on your dog.
If choke chains do not work and can cause permanent damage to your dog, what does work? Dog training is by far the best way to have a well mannered, happy best friend. You have to train them psychologically, not physically.
Article below gives full explanations as to why Check/Choke chains should NEVER be used
ARTICLE by PADDY DRISCOLL ON USE OF CHECK/CHOKE CHAINS
Reprinted with kind permission of Paddy Driscoll
**Click on READ MORE to see whole article**
Check chains are still used dog training despite the advent of more positive training methods. There isn't a lot of evidence that they cause damage to dogs, but there is some.
Vets will tell you they encounter disc and neck problems which they believe to be a result of dogs being corrected on check chains. Respected veterinary behaviourist Robin Walker wrote a strong letter to the Veterinary Record (Veterinary Record March 19th 1994 p312) in which he makes clear his professional opinion that check chains are damaging and dangerous. "In 30 years of practice (including 22 years as veterinary adviser to a police dog section)" he says " I have seen numerous severely sprained necks, cases of fainting, transient foreleg paresis, and hind leg ataxia after robust use of the check chain." He has more to say about the use of punishment, period, in training. "It fails disastrously when it creates anxious casualties or violently defiant rebels." (op cit)
HEATSTROKE - what it is and how to treat it
Once it gets warm EVERY year dogs die from heatstroke - don't let yours be another statistic.
And don't forget: DOGS DIE IN HOT VEHICLES!!
What is heatstroke?
In simple terms, heatstroke occurs when a dog loses its natural ability to regulate its body temperature. Dogs don't sweat all over their bodies the way humans do. Canine body temperature is primarily regulated through respiration (i.e., panting). If a dog's respiratory tract cannot evacuate heat quickly enough, heatstroke can occur.
To know whether or not your dog is suffering from heatstroke (as opposed to merely heat exposure), it's important to know the signs of heatstroke.
A dog's normal resting temperature is about 100.5 to 102.5 degrees Fahrenheit. Once a dog's temperature rises above 105 degrees, physiological changes start to take place, and the dog begins to experience the effects of heatstroke. At 106 to 108 degrees, the dog begins to suffer irreversible damage to the kidneys, liver, gastrointestinal tract, heart and brain.
If a dog is experiencing heatstroke, you may observe excessive panting; hyperventilation; increased salivation; dry gums that become pale, greyish and tacky; rapid or erratic pulse; weakness; confusion; inattention; vomiting; diarrhoea; and possible rectal bleeding. If the dog continues to overheat, breathing efforts become slowed or absent, and finally, seizures or coma can occur.
The amount of damage a dog sustains when stricken with heatstroke depends on the magnitude and duration of the exposure. The longer and more severe the exposure, the worse the damage will be.
What to do
1. Pay attention to your dog. Recognizing the symptoms of heatstroke and responding quickly is essential for the best possible outcome.
2. Get into the shade. If you think your dog is suffering from heatstroke, move it into a shaded area and out of direct sunlight. Apply cool water to the inner thighs and stomach of the dog, where there's a higher concentration of relatively superficial, large blood vessels. Apply cool water to the foot pads, as well.
3. Use running water when possible. A tap or hose is the best way to wet down your dog's body. Never submerge your dog in water, such as in a pool or tub - this could cool the dog too rapidly, leading to further complications, including cardiac arrest and bloating.
4. Use cool - not cold - water. Many people make the mistake of using cold water or ice to cool the dog. When faced with a dog suffering from heatstroke, remember that the goal is to cool the dog. Using ice or extremely cold water is actually counterproductive to this process because ice and cold water cause the blood vessels to constrict, which slows blood flow, thus slowing the cooling process.
5. Don't cover the dog. One of the keys to successfully cooling your dog is ensuring the water being placed on the dog can evaporate. Never cover an overheated dog with a wet towel or blanket. This inhibits evaporation and creates a sauna effect around your dog's body. Likewise, don't wet the dog down and put it into an enclosed area, such as a kennel. Any air flow during the cooling process is helpful in reducing the dog's body temperature. Sitting with the wet dog in a running car with the air conditioner blowing is an ideal cooling situation.
6. Keep the dog moving. It's important to try to encourage your dog to stand or walk slowly as it cools down. This is because the circulating blood tends to pool in certain areas if the dog is lying down, thus preventing the cooled blood from circulating back to the core.
7. Allow the dog to drink small amounts of cool (NOT cold) water. Cooling the dog is the first priority. Hydration is the next. Don't allow the dog to gulp water. Instead, offer small amounts of water that's cool, but not cold. If the dog drinks too much water too rapidly, it could lead to vomiting or bloat.
8. Avoid giving human performance drinks. Performance beverages designed for humans are not recommended because they are not formulated with the canine's physiology in mind. If you can't get an overheated dog to drink water, try offering chicken- or beef-based broths.
See a vet
Once your dog's temperature begins to drop, cease the cooling efforts and bring the dog to a vet as soon as possible. Your dog's temperature should be allowed to slowly return to normal once cooling has begun. A dog that's cooled too quickly may become hypothermic.
Even if your dog appears to be fully recovered, the vet needs to check to determine if the heatstroke caused any damage to your dog's kidneys and liver. The effects of heatstroke can continue for 48 to 72 hours longer, even if your dog appears normal.
William Grant, DVM, a vet for 20 years and former president of the Southern California Veterinary Medical Association, has treated hundreds of cases of heatstroke, ranging from mild to fatal.
According to Grant, the most common cause of death following heatstroke is disseminated intravascular coagulopathy (blood coagulating throughout the body), or DIC, which can occur hours or days after the heatstroke episode.
DIC can also be caused by pyometra or septicemia, but Grant says heatstroke is the most common cause. "Once a dog develops DIC, it may bleed in the thorax, abdomen, nose and intestine," Grant says. "Once the blood-clotting factors are consumed, there is an inability of the blood vessels to prevent leaking; the condition is almost always fatal." For this reason, follow-up veterinary care is essential following a heatstroke episode, even if your dog seems to be completely fine.
Prevention is the best medicine
The best treatment for heatstroke is prevention. Especially during the summer months, it's essential to be aware of the potential for heatstroke. Knowing the signs of heatstroke, and taking the necessary steps to prevent it, will ensure your dog can have a safe and active life year-round.
And don't forget: DOGS DIE IN HOT VEHICLES!!
Desensitization is basically introducing a concerning thing at a low enough level that it is not concerning. And only increasing intensity when the dog is ready.
Examples of desensitization
-A dog afraid of humans. Start with one human (no hats, no shades, no back pack or purse) at a distance far enough away so that the dog can see but not become concerned. (could be 2 or 3 hundred feet away)
... - A dog afraid of nail trims. Start with just approaches, then reaching, then barley touching the leg, then touching the feet, then presenting the instrument and so on.
- A dog who gets over-stimulated by company. Introduce people outside first or work just on door openings or just on the door bell.
These are NOT desensitization
- A dog is anxious or over aroused in a pet store. So you take the dog to the pet store over and over again in hopes that he will "get used to it"
- A dog barks at the door bell, so you ring the bell over and over "to make the doorbell not a big deal"
- A dog doesn't like being touched, so you stroke the dog over and over "until she likes petting"
- A dog is anxious around stranger dogs, so you take her to an indoor group training class (that is not set up for reactive dogs) where she has to be close to other dogs "so she can get exposure to other dogs"
The type of exposures listed above could backfire and sensitize a dog instead of desensitize. Basically it can make a dog's issues worse.
From Dr Karen Overall's Manual of Clinical Behavior:
"Prolonged exposure to a stimulus that provokes an adaptively anxious response does not induce habituation. Instead, it can induce hypervigilance, exhaustion, and increased anxiety, which may or may not become pathological, given other factors in the environment."
See what other experts write here: http://tinyurl.com/GradualExposure
Click on links below to visit websites:
This is a site that lists rescue centres across the UK, along with other useful information. There are also reviews from people who have used some centres and that could be useful when chosing where to look for your rescue dog.
Click on the photo to go to the site.
Click on links below to visit Rescue Centre websites:
If you find a stray dog:
Since 1st April, 2008 the Police are no longer a point of contact for lost/stray dogs. You must contact the local Dog Warden or if it's 'Out of Hours' contact the 'designated person or kennel' and if necessary take the dog to them - all the information is in the new laws that were passed a couple of years ago and came into force officially on 1st April 2008.
Currently the local Dog Warden contact (Mon to Thurs 9am to 5pm & Fri 9am to 4pm) is: 01444 477041
Currently the local Out of hours Duty Office contact (Mon to Thurs 5pm to 9am & Fri 4pm to 9am, plus bank holidays) is: 01444 446495
Also please contact DOG LOST website (link above) and get the dogs details (and details of where it has been passed to) on the site asap.
CLICK HERE - to go to the Mid Sussex Dog Control information page.
To report any dead animals the contact is: 01444 458166
I have completed a website that links to a huge variety of training information, methods, video's and articles .. please check out the information in the following site - click on button below:
If you ever need the right advice re Dog Law, we recommend Trevor Cooper: http://www.doglaw.co.uk/
KEEP YOUR DOG SAFE AND HEALTHY:
NEVER - leave your dog tied up outside shops (dogs are being stolen at an alarming rate EVERY DAY)
NEVER - leave your dog in a car on even warm days - several dogs die in the UK each year left in cars - it only takes MINUTES for this to happen
NEVER - play with sticks with your dogs or allow them to carry sticks - several dogs die or are badly injured by playing with sticks in the UK each year
NEVER - Train using prong or 'E' Collars or physical punishment - its cruel, outdated and unnecessary
WORMING YOUR DOG .. If you want to check IF your dog actually has worms before putting possibly unnecessary wormer into them use this site (very quick turn around service) - checks for all common worms, including lungworm:
Click on a category below to view News/Blog on that subject and scroll down through the posts that appear re your chosen topic.
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